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NathanFooter

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I think it can vary depending on the brand of batteries. I've been using Sam's Club "Member's Mark" batteries. I'm all out now - My next round of batteries will be Duracells.

Same dates, same batteries - I got just under 63 hours on two recorders (within two minutes difference) before they shut off, without filling up the internal memory.

This was during unseasonably hot September days (highs in upper 80's). The following week I got 70 hours out of one that had an SD card. I swapped that one out with a different recorder (no SD card) that then went 69 hours filling up the 4GB internal memory.

 

I still have all of those files to go through and I keep creating more. I plan to deploy 4 recorders again for 3 nights next week.

 

 

Edited by Redbone
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Okay, I figured you were an sd card in them. Here is a tip I do to make sure I get an extra night of audio sometimes. If possible and it's close to me, I'll put out the audio recorders late in the evening. This way the audio on the recorder will record more time the last evening than just having the last day all daytime audio. I rarely listen to day time audio. So I try to get as much nighttime as I can. So if you know how many hours your recorders generally gives you you can kinda time out the hours and when you should deploy them for more night time stuff.

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11 hours ago, SWWASAS said:

  As Redbone commented, one battery will start charging the other. 

 

Not an issue for this particular application. He wants to run the device for as long as possible, until the batteries die. He'll start with new batteries and expend them completely.

 

Quote

If I wanted a large capacity 12 volt lead acid battery pack I would use two large 6 volt batteries wired in series.

 

That only doubles the capacity. What if you want to increase capacity ten fold?  You have to wire in parallel or you'll increase the output...

 

 

6 hours ago, Redbone said:

I think it can vary depending on the brand of batteries. I've been using Sam's Club "Member's Mark" batteries. I'm all out now - My next round of batteries will be Duracells.

Same dates, same batteries - I got just under 63 hours on two recorders (within two minutes difference) before they shut off, without filling up the internal memory.

This was during unseasonably hot September days (highs in upper 80's). The following week I got 70 hours out of one that had an SD card. I swapped that one out with a different recorder (no SD card) that then went 69 hours filling up the 4GB internal memory.

 

 

You could get a 64GB SD card, use lantern batteries and record for two weeks...

 

lantern-batt.PNG

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That big lantern battery won't fit inside my Dollar Tree cup. I can get a good duration increase if I use AA batteries instead of AAA, and I can probably make that fit, but I'll have to modify my recorders to have a power connector. I'm content with what I have for the time being.  My setup is small, light, cheap, easy to deploy, and hard for others to notice. The only one ever stolen was hanging out on a horse post for all to see when I was trying to verify that it was rain proof (it is). Luckily I got that one back from the old hag that took it.

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I have not tried it but I wonder if diodes would prevent back charging in parallel battery packs.    Certainly that would prevent current flow in one direction.  

Edited by SWWASAS
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17 minutes ago, SWWASAS said:

I have not tried it but I wonder if diodes would prevent back charging in parallel battery packs.    Certainly that would prevent current flow in one direction.  

It would, but a potential problem could be the voltage drop across the diode, which will be about .6V. That'll be that much less voltage for your device to work with,

If we are talking about 6 or 12V batteries, that voltage loss across the diode is probably negligible. It's a pretty good idea...

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On 10/11/2017 at 3:40 PM, TritonTr196 said:

 

 

A entirely enclosed holder would only work for using a cell phone to do this due to the light. A device like this attached to a cell phone would if kept on, get extremely hot. And unlike a trail cam it would be prone to moisture. 

 

What I'm interested in hearing is what you come up with for power to keep it going for days at a time.

  

I was not referring to phone unit above for incorporation into the long duration setup,  I was just prefacing the thread about a project that will later be displayed here.    

 

 

  I just wanted to bring it to the attention of those here that there are units that offer the 320X240 resolution at 500$ price point.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I agree that a thermal will never convince a skeptic. Thankfully, I am only looking to get thermal footage for my pleasure and maybe a few friends.  I've had instances when I am confident having a thermal would have produced an image.

 

Last weekend, I brought a friend of mine to a location where I've gotten two solid and very close wood knocks. We went to the area where I heard it and walked around.  It is surrounded on three sides by a large swamp. He agreed there is no way a human is getting into this area at night through the swamp. No way a human is getting through the chock point at night. Significant blown down, uneven terrain, and tree branches at body and eye level. With only way in, it is a good choke point to have a thermal to glass the entrance area. This is where a thermal opens up a whole new world. If I had it, I might have been able to pick up a heat signature after either of the wood knocks.

 

If one looks hard enough, there are demo imagers out there at reduced prices and you still get full warranty. I'm considering one now I located at a small dealer in WV who used it one evening during a customer show-and-tell benefit. I think Pulsar gives the best bang for the money. The new Helion line has a built-in recorder, 8gb of storage. I think I'm set on the Helion XQ30F or 38F.

 

Here's a classic example of what a thermal can pick up even during the day. The person in the video below would be very to miss. When I saw the movements of the guy in this video, I smiled and wondered if they are purposely looking to address squatchers!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBjmIX2HCU0

Edited by wiiawiwb
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Another thing to consider is is that thermal imagers can detect objects through black plastic as if it were glass. The person on the thermal imager side of the black plastic screen cannot be seen by the target however. Might be an important thing to remember if you are at all worried about the imager's screen light up your face at night.

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1 hour ago, hiflier said:

Another thing to consider is is that thermal imagers can detect objects through black plastic as if it were glass. The person on the thermal imager side of the black plastic screen cannot be seen by the target however. Might be an important thing to remember if you are at all worried about the imager's screen light up your face at night.

 

 

An example of thermal seeing through black plastic bag. If you have one wrapped around your head generating heat sure, you can see through it with a thermal.

 

But, If you're just sitting one behind a black plastic piece trying to capture something in the distance it's not going to work. Thermal also has a problem seeing through glass.

 

There shouldn't be any worry with modern day thermals. Most all are now monocular or binocular eye pieces which shields any light. If you're buying one now days it shouldn't have an open screen on it to project any light.

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55 minutes ago, TritonTr196 said:

But, If you're just sitting one behind a black plastic piece trying to capture something in the distance it's not going to work.

 Which makes sense since thermal imagers detect heat on a surface. If a warm body is too far away to have it's heat warm the plastic then it won't be seen. So it would be a useful technique to hide oneself so that a creature might be curious enough to get close and have it's body heat warm the plastic enclosure. Then an imager could 'see' it. So hiding the observer would be the point.

Edited by hiflier
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  • 1 month later...

I had several opportunities this past week to look through a FLIR Scout III (640x512), a Pulsar Quantum Lite XQ23V (384x288), and the FLIR Scout TK (160x120).  I was impressed with the  Pulsar which was nearly half the price of the FLIR 640.  The 640 was sharper but wasn't worth twice the price, in my opinion. Moreover, the Pulsar has an AMOLED screen which I've heard said is better in conditions below 32F. 

 

The Scout TK, while inexpensive, just didn't perform to my expectation. It does provide the ability to see whether something is out there and if that is the criterion, then it works. I'd like a little better clarity.

 

The Helion line has a better lens than the Quantum Lite and the Helion XQ30F can be had at a hair over $2,000. I think that's the way to go unless price is simply no object.

 

Any other thermals out there that are recommended?

 

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I've seen the DJI Phantom 4 on YT.  I am not crazy about any drone for squatching given how loud they are. Having said that, if they find a way to make them nearly silent, count me in. Then they would be absolutely invaluable.

 

Otherwise, they're a nonstarter for me.

 

 

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