Your Ride Won't Run - What Now?

[Airdale]

The idea for this thread came from some back and forth between Norseman and myself in the "Squatchin' Vehicle" thread. My thought is to have a kind of clearinghouse where we can share our knowledge of how to deal with vehicle breakdowns, maintenance tips to prevent them or mitigate the damage when they happen anyway and what to have handy in the way of tools and parts, etc. Tell of a personal experience and how you solved it or share a video clip. I'm no mechanic, but in over 50 years of driving hundreds of thousands of miles in lots of different vehicles I've learned a bit here and there, and collectively there has got to be a lot of knowledge on the Forum. If you have a question, ask it here, but please don't wait for questions if you have something to share.

 

I'll start with something that just came up recently. Both our son and daughter and their families live in Seattle, and I got a call from my son last Saturday with a vehicle question. He drives a 2001 GMC Jimmy and it was starting to idle roughly, the worst when facing uphill, and there are lots of hills in Seattle. The check engine light wasn't on so the first thing that came to mind was a fuel problem. The fuel pump had been replaced last summer and he'd been running on the same tank of gas for three days so fuel contamination wasn't likely. I suggested he replace the fuel filter, and that solved the problem. I've replaced fuel filters several times over the decades and they've always given a little warning with a rough idle or, with my '65 Cutlass, it suddenly began "motor boating" on the highway with the RPM's dropping way down then returning to normal so rapidly that the car was surging up and down like a speed boat on choppy water.

 

One thing to keep in mind is that most vehicles since the late 1980's use some form of fuel injection and the fuel system is pressurized, so before disconnecting the line to the fuel filter, loosen the gas cap to relieve the pressure unless you would like a flammable liquid shower. If you've never had to replace the filter on the rig you're about to take into the back of beyond and it has some miles on it, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it as a preventive measure. Alternately, stop at a parts house and pick up a spare (be sure to ask where the filter is located and if you need a special sized wrench for the job). I can tell you from experience on many GM trucks it's located on the inside of the frame, driver's side, and at least for a '97 Suburban it does take an odd size wrench and no, I don't recall the size but the parts store was happy to sell me one for about $14. Happy researching, and please, let's have some more tips!

[BC witness]

Periodically check that your car jack is actually in the truck, and that it functions. Then check that the spare is present, has air in it, and can be released from where ever it is carried. Many trucks and SUVs have it mounted under the frame at the rear on a small cable hoist. Those things are very prone to seizing up from corrosion, so check every few months that it still works. Once you've re and re'ed that tire with the horrible sidewall cut from a sharp rock, you no longer have a spare with you, so an electric air pump and a patch/plug kit are a good idea for that second flat before you get back to pavement.

[SWWASAS]

Related to fuel contamination if you stop at a service station and see the fuel delivery truck there delivering fuel, don't fuel up for a while after the delivery truck leaves.    When they dump fuel, it stirs up and sludge or rust in the tank bottom.   You don't want that fuel in your tank.       Related to that,  I had an old truck I did not drive much and would often let a tank get very empty before I filled it.      If you live in a damp climate,   a half empty or less tank does not have enough gasoline vapor pressure to keep out moisture and you can start getting rust inside your gas tank.     After several years the car would just die and stop at highway speeds.    Would not start, then after a half hour or so, would start and run again.      Rust forms flakes, which will plaster a fuel filter with flakes, and leads to complete blockage of the filter.     Sitting a few minutes the flakes will fall off, and the filter allow fuel to pass.    It took removing and replacing the gas tank to fix the rust problem with the rusty tank.    .   

[Airdale]

As long as we're talking fuel related issues, I'll revisit fuel pumps. Fuel pumps are located in the tank, utilizing the gasoline as a coolant, so in addition to SW's tip about limiting moisture and rust, keeping the tank topped off can prevent premature failure of the fuel pump.

 

In the past, folks habitually tried to milk a few more ounces of gas from the nozzle after the flow from the pump shuts off. Before the advent of pollution control technology it wasn't a problem; nowadays, it can allow fuel into the filter that keeps fumes out of the air causing a check engine code and requiring the filter be replaced. Please note, not being a professional auto technician, I don't always know the proper terminology for a part and may not accurately describe its function exactly. Anything I contribute here however, unless otherwise noted, comes from personal experience or has been related to me by an experienced professional mechanic. In this case, I knew of the issue when a good friend and old Navy shipmate mentioned he'd had the filter replaced three times in the first year he owned a late model 4Runner. Knowing his last car was about a 1980 Datsun that was on its 4th engine and nudging 400k miles and that he drafted semis to increase mileage, I asked if he still tried to squeeze a few more drops at the pump. He replied that he did, I passed on the above tip and three years later he's a happy camper.

[gigantor]

I think the most likely vehicle issues in the field are:

 

1) Flat tire

2) Stuck in mud/snow/ditch

3) Dead battery

 

I had a situation in my Jeep where the stock jack was useless. It would not fit under the suspension when the tire was flat because of the terrain. It would not extend high enough for an alternative position. I was lucky because the tire went flat on my way out and I wasn't far from town.

 

So now I always have a Hi-Lift jack with a lug strap and base when going off-road. The jack can also be used as a come-along winch...  I'm looking at installing a dual battery kit.

 

 

 

[norseman]

Traction ramps

 

https://express.google.com/product/14007970067607154393_7261429051743761648_1699011?mall=WashingtonDC&directCheckout=1&utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=product_ads&utm_campaign=gsx&dclid=CKD20IyNm9sCFQ4-fwodfMcNbA

 

Traction claw

 

https://www.cabelas.com/product/TRAC-GRABBER-TRACTION-DEVICE/1997273.uts?productVariantId=4945915&WT.tsrc=PPC&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=04653682&rid=20&ds_rl=1252079&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpJ7aio2b2wIVCrnACh0zfQJLEAQYASABEgKD8PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Battery Chainsaw (No Saw gas smell in vehicle, but does need bar oil) 

 

 

 

Winch-Air compressor combo

 

https://www.amazon.com/WARN-71801-PowerPlant-Compressor-Winch/dp/B000P5VXR4

 

 

Hand tools:

Tool bag

Axe

Shovel

[Catmandoo]

I travel with a full set of tools

2 spare tires. I blew out a sidewall so bad. This happens when the weather is changing and it's zero-dark-thirty hours.

I have had gas problems with stations in Seattle. Not brand of gas but location. I use HEET gas line antifreeze and my fav, Marvel Mystery Oil. Your warranty may have limitations on fuel additives.

I carry 2 types of Maasdam pullers: strap and rope. When the anchor point that you need is 100' away, the rope puller shines.

www.maasdam.com

 I went with a spill proof battery; Optima redtop. I travel with a spare alternator.

Just bought a battery chainsaw. 36volt, brushless motor technology so no arcing like brush type electric motors.

I added a switch to bypass the thermo switch that controls the radiator fan. In 4WD, vehicle speed is slow and airflow to the radiator is reduced. I like to have good oil pressure when climbing uphill. Hot weather,  2,000 rpm, low vehicle speed and the fan is switched on manually. Next change is a second fan.

[norseman]

My buddy was in high school working a summer job in a mine in Nevada.

 

Made friends with a Mexican/American fellow and they would go 4x4 on weekends and go look at old ghost towns, camp, drink beer, etc.

 

Somehow something got left on over night and and the battery was dead in morn. They were 30 miles from nowhere.... 

 

The Mexican buddy had a chainsaw in the bed of his pick up. He took the bar off, took the belt of the engine pulley and put it on the power head. Fired it up, and spun the alternator for 10 minutes..... put the belt back on the engine and fired it right up!

 

I guess you can do the same thing with a cordless drill.

[gigantor]

^^^ or you can drive a manual transmission and jump start it...

[norseman]

25 minutes ago, gigantor said:

^^^ or you can drive a manual transmission and jump start it...

 

If your on a hill..... lots of flat hard pan valleys in Nevada. 

[Doc Holliday]

Lol, I knew G would put a plug somewhere for stick shifts..I like them too but my old knee doesn't..may have to go auto because of it soon.

I've heard of a fix for a tire that has lost the bead, popped off but still on the rim.....spray part of  a can of wd 40 all around where the gap between tire and rim is and quickly light it..Boom , it can blowup the tire and reseat the bead in a pinch.

 

[norseman]

I drive Peterbilts with 18 spd road rangers..... thumbs up on gear jammin!

 

My side and belly.